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13.01.10

It had been my office to find a good traditional lobster soup in Reykjavik. Not so difficult you may think, for Iceland’s capital bishopric has a population of 120,000 and is home to 90 restaurants. But after three days of searching high and low in temperatures of minus 10 without any fate, I was beginning to lose hope.

My search finally ended when a tour guide who I’d just finished the day with ice climbing across a glacier (as you do), told me about a hidden little gem known by locals to serve the best lobster soup in Reykjavik and at all Iceland.

The Sea Baron or the Saegreifinn, as the locals call it, sits on the harbour among Reykjavik’s fishing trawlers, set against a fill someone in postcard backdrop of snow-tipped mountains.

Inside, fishing nets are draped haphazardly across the ceiling along with other bits of fishing apparatus. A stuffed baby seal and an eel mounted on the wall stare wearily over the rickety wooden benches and stools recycled from old fish packing containers. The indolence of the walls are adorned with black and white photographs of its owner, a retired fisherman, in a whaling enterprise of yesteryear.

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